Hokkaido in Winter: 7 Days Among Snow, Onsen and Festivals

Flight Madrid-Tokyo-Sapporo (16h with layover, €950 round trip in February). Lodging near JR station.

The Sapporo Snow Festival (Yuki Matsuri, first 7 days of February) is our reason to come. 200+ giant ice and snow sculptures in three sites: Odori Park (the monumental ones, free), Susukino (illuminated ice sculptures) and Tsudome (family-friendly, with slide). We saw a 15-meter-tall sculpture of a Korean temple.

Day 2: Susukino district for authentic miso ramen (Menya Saimi, 1h queue but worth it). Visit to the Sapporo brewery (free, 200 yen tasting). Dinner at the Nijo Fish Market: kaisendon (sashimi bowl over rice) 2,500 yen.

JR train to Otaru (30 min, included with JR Hokkaido Pass). Coastal town known for its historic Meiji-era canal, warehouses converted to cafés and glass-blowing artisans.

In the late afternoon they light the gas lamps along the canal, a complete postcard. We ate sushi on Sushi-ya Dori (sushi street): Masazushi, omakase 4,500 yen, fresh uni and oromen.

Back to Sapporo and evening in the Tanukikoji food district: jingisukan (grilled lamb, Hokkaido specialty) at Daruma.

Train + bus to Niseko (3h, 5,000 yen). It's Japan's ski mecca: snow quality here is legendary for quantity and dryness.

Grand Hirafu (daily pass 7,500 yen) has 31 runs and rideable backcountry. Full rental 6,000 yen/day.

We're not expert skiers but a full day on blue runs in virgin powder was a revelation. Dinner: ramen at Niseko Ramen Kazahana, 1,200 yen, in a wooden house with fireplace.

Day 5: full day in Niseko or, if you don't ski, the valley onsen route. Yukoro Onsen (700 yen), Goshiki Onsen (800 yen) and 5 more public baths. Snow falling and steam rising from the water, you're happy in silence.

We moved base to Noboribetsu, Hokkaido's most famous onsen town. Sulfur thermal waters with 11 different types within 1 km.

Daiichi Takimotokan (hotel, day bath 2,000 yen) has 35 different pools, all fed by natural waters. We walked to Jigokudani (Hell Valley), an active crater with geysers and boiling mud, connected by snowy trail to the onsen.

We slept in traditional ryokan Ryotei Hanayura (38,000 yen/night with kaiseki dinner and breakfast). Yukata, tatami, private hot-spring ofuro. Top Japan experience.

Optional day to ski Furano (more family-friendly than Niseko) or visit Asahiyama Zoo. We went back to Sapporo, ate at the Curb Market and took the night flight.

Before leaving: 30 min of Japanese whisky tasting at Bar Yamazaki (Sapporo), 2,500 yen for a flight of 3 (Yoichi, Yamazaki, Hibiki). Yoichi is the Hokkaido distillery, on an island near Otaru.