Yucatan and Cenotes: 8 Days Among Maya Ruins and Turquoise Waters

We arrived in Mérida from Madrid (via Madrid-Mexico City-Mérida or via Madrid-Cancún + ADO bus 4h). Mérida is the best base: colonial, safe, tasty.

Day 1: Plaza Grande, the oldest cathedral in continental America, Casa de Montejo. Walk along Paseo de Montejo with henequen-era mansions. Dinner at La Chaya Maya: cochinita pibil, papadzules, sopa de lima.

Day 2: full day to Celestún (1h45 west), biosphere reserve with pink flamingos. Shared boat 200 pesos pp (1h30, mangroves + flamingos). Lunch at Tonita's palafito: shrimp ceviche, tikin xic fish.

Uxmal is 1h south of Mérida and we found it more spectacular than Chichén Itzá. Same grand structures (Pyramid of the Magician, Nunnery Quadrangle) without crowds. Entry 533 pesos.

Puuc Route: 4 Maya sites in 30 km. Kabah, Sayil, Xlapak, Labná. Each costs 65 pesos and they're spectacular for their solitude. We were almost always the only visitors.

End of day at Yaxcopoil hacienda (the one in John Lloyd Stephens' book), 80 pesos. Henequen ruins with their rusty machines in situ. Places with soul.

We slept in Santa Elena, at Sacbé Bungalows: cabin with pool, €60/night. Traditional Maya dinner at El Cojolite.

Triple cenote Santa Bárbara (Homún, 1h southeast of Mérida): Cascabel, Xoch and Chaksikin. 250 pesos joint entry + optional truck ride (50 pesos).

Each completely different: Cascabel is a closed cave with skylight, Xoch has a huge chamber with a vine swing, Chaksikin has water lilies. We came out completely burned (inside and out, not from the sun).

Back via Cuzamá for cenote Chelentun, reached by vintage horse-drawn motocarro along the old henequen railway tracks. 300 pesos pp. Complete cultural experience.

Dinner in Mérida at La Negrita Cantina: Thursday live trova, cold micheladas and melted-cheese machetes.

Izamal, magic town painted entirely yellow ("The Yellow City") by order of Pope John Paul II in 1993. The San Antonio de Padua convent has the largest atrium in America. Visit by horse carriage (250 pesos/30 min).

From there to Valladolid (1h), our favorite. Living colonial town, zero drunk tourists, genuine local vibe. Cenote Zaci in the town center (60 pesos).

We slept at Casa Hamaca, tropical hammock hotel, €70/night. Dinner at Conato 1910: turkey in relleno negro, mole poblano. Best Yucatan cuisine of the route.

Early start to Chichén Itzá: 6:30 departure, 7:50 arrival to enter at 8:00 opening. This is non-negotiable. By 10:00 the Cancún buses arrive and the pyramid becomes an impossible photo.

Kukulkán is impressive. The Temple of the Warriors, the largest Mesoamerican ball court, the Sacred Cenote, the Thousand Pillars. 614 pesos entry (it's Yucatan's most expensive).

After, cool off in cenote Ik Kil (150 pesos) or, better, Yokdzonot (80 pesos), a local cooperative far less crowded and with ziplines.

Lunch in Pisté: Las Mestizas, cochinita pibil 120 pesos. Back to Valladolid.

We crossed to the Riviera Maya. Tulum ruin (on the cliff, 95 pesos) is the only archaeological zone facing the sea. First thing in the morning.

The Tulum hotel zone is expensive touristy and saturated. We slept in town (Ciudad Tulum), €50/night. Dinner at Hartwood (€35 pp, book weeks ahead) is worth it.

Day 8: Dos Ojos cenote before the airport. Snorkel in cave with lit cavern. Flight from Cancún. Car return, 1h to airport. Tip: fly Mérida or Cancún by price, they're symmetric.