Mexico City: 6 Days Among Pyramids, Tacos and Art

Historic Center: ancient Tenochtitlán

The Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución) is the world's second-largest plaza. Here stood the Aztec Templo Mayor, demolished by Cortés in 1521. The Metropolitan Cathedral (free) is the largest in the Americas: 250 years of construction mixing styles from baroque to neoclassical.

Steps away, the Templo Mayor ruins (95 MXN) reveal the spiritual heart of Tenochtitlán: the accidental discovery in 1978 while installing the metro rewrote history. The adjacent museum displays the colossal Coyolxauhqui (the dismembered moon goddess).

The National Palace (free with passport, closed Mondays) holds Diego Rivera's most impressive murals: Mexico's history on its staircase and main courtyard. Plan 1 hour minimum.

The House of Tiles (Sanborns), the Palace of Fine Arts (75 MXN, free Sundays for Mexicans, folkloric ballet Tuesdays and Sundays €80-120) and the Latin American Tower (observation deck, 175 MXN) complete the center. Eat at Café de Tacuba (1912) or El Cardenal (high-end traditional Mexican, 600 MXN/person).

Teotihuacán pyramids and Frida in Coyoacán

Teotihuacán (95 MXN, 1 hour by bus from Terminal Norte for 64 MXN or tour 800 MXN) is central Mexico's most impressive archaeological city. The Pyramid of the Sun (65m, world's third tallest) and the Pyramid of the Moon were built between the 1st-7th centuries AD, before the Aztecs. The Avenue of the Dead links the entire complex. Arrive at sunrise (8AM opening) to avoid heat and crowds. Optional balloon flight (3,500 MXN).

Coyoacán is the bohemian southern neighborhood. La Casa Azul (Frida Kahlo Museum, 290 MXN, book online days ahead) is the house where the artist was born, lived and died: studio, crutches, painted corsets. 10 minutes' walk away, the Leon Trotsky House Museum (60 MXN), where he was assassinated in 1940 by Ramón Mercader.

Plaza Hidalgo and Jardín Centenario are Coyoacán's heart: mariachis, street esquites, churros with cajeta and the Coyotes fountain. Try tlacoyos (blue corn masa cakes, 30 MXN) at Coyoacán Market.

Xochimilco (south, 30 MXN trajinera per hour) are the Aztec canals: colorful trajineras with mariachis, food on cooking boats and the most festive weekend atmosphere.

Chapultepec and Polanco museums

Chapultepec Park is Mexico's Central Park (bigger). It houses Chapultepec Castle (95 MXN, the Americas' only royal castle, spectacular views over Reforma and the Estela de Luz) and the National Museum of Anthropology (95 MXN), one of the world's best: the Aztec Sun Stone, Olmec heads, Pakal the Great's tomb. Plan 4 hours minimum.

The Tamayo Museum (75 MXN, closed Mondays) features international contemporary art. The Modern Art Museum (80 MXN) displays Tamayo, Orozco, Siqueiros and the most famous Frida: The Two Fridas.

Polanco is the luxury neighborhood: Masaryk Avenue (Mexico's Champs-Élysées), world-renowned restaurants like Pujol (Enrique Olvera, 8th best in the world, 4,500 MXN tasting menu with 3,000-day mole madre) and Quintonil (3,500 MXN). The Soumaya Museum (free, Carlos Slim's mirrored aluminum building) holds the largest Rodin collection outside France.

Lomas de Chapultepec and Las Lomas are the most expensive residential neighborhoods: modern architecture, mansions and the Papalote Children's Museum for families.

Tacos, mezcal and the best Latin American cuisine

Mexican cuisine is UNESCO Intangible Heritage. Tacos are religion: Los Cocuyos (head and suadero al pastor tacos, 18 MXN each, 24 hours), El Huequito (al pastor since 1959, 30 MXN), El Califa (the most internationally known, 50 MXN). Pair with horchata, jamaica water or Modelo beer.

For a cutting-edge dining experience: Pujol (mole madre, book 2 months ahead) and Contramar (whole grilled fish, 800 MXN, no reservation but arrive 1:30PM) are essential. Sud777 (1,200 MXN tasting menu) and Israel (cantina-restaurant with high cuisine) are excellent alternatives.

Roma Norte and Condesa are the foodie neighborhoods: Lardo (Italian-Mexican, 700 MXN), Máximo Bistrot (Franco-Mexican, 1,500 MXN), Rosetta (Italian by Elena Reygadas, 1,200 MXN). Sunday brunch is a ritual.

Mezcal at Bosforo (over 100 labels, 80 MXN per glass) or La Botica (chain with several locations). Artisanal Oaxacan mezcal with worm and grasshopper salt is the authentic experience.

Markets: La Merced (the largest, chaotic, real), San Juan (gourmet, scorpions and crocodile) and Roma (foodie chic).

Practical tips and budget

Safety: Mexico City is safer than its reputation suggests if you stick to tourist zones (Center, Roma, Condesa, Polanco, Coyoacán). Avoid Tepito and outer neighborhoods. Always use Uber (safer and cheaper than taxis). The metro is safe by day (5 MXN, 30 cents), avoid rush hour.

Getting around: the metro is basic, the Metrobús (6 MXN) covers main avenues. For everything else, Uber (a long ride costs 100-200 MXN, €5-10). AICM Airport via Uber 250 MXN, by metro 5 MXN but lots of stairs with luggage.

Accommodation: Roma Norte and Condesa are the best neighborhoods (cool, safe, foodie, well-connected). Boutique hotel 1,500-3,000 MXN/night. Polanco is luxury (3,000-7,000 MXN). Historic Center has lots of atmosphere but more noise.

Budget for 6 days (per person): Flight: €600-1,200 (from Europe). Accommodation: 9,000-18,000 MXN (€450-900). Food: 4,000-9,000 MXN (€200-450, Mexico is very affordable). Transport and Uber: 1,500-3,000 MXN. Museums and Teotihuacán: 1,500 MXN. Total: ~16,000-31,500 MXN (~€800-1,575, excluding flight).

Best time: March-May (mild, no rain). December-February is dry but cool in mornings (5°C). June-October is rainy season (rains 1-2 hours in the afternoon, clear mornings). Altitude: 2,240m, first days may cause headaches.