Croatia: Dubrovnik, Split and the Islands in 9 Days

Dubrovnik welcomed us with that golden Mediterranean light that bathes everything. The old town, surrounded by 13th-century walls rising above the sea, looks like something from a fairy tale (or Game of Thrones, where it served as King's Landing). Walking the complete walls takes about 2 hours and offers the best views of the city: terracotta rooftops, towers, the old port and the infinite blue of the Adriatic. We recommend going first thing in the morning to avoid crowds. The Stradun, the old town's main street, is Dubrovnik's heart. At sunset it comes alive: musicians, terrace restaurants and golden light bouncing off limestone. We took the cable car to the top of Mount Srđ. The panoramic views from above are among the most spectacular we've seen in Europe: the old city below, the Elafiti islands on the horizon and the coast stretching north. For swimming, Banje beach is just outside the walls. The contrast of swimming in crystal-clear water with medieval walls in the background is surreal.

From Dubrovnik we took a fast ferry to Korčula island, known as the birthplace of Marco Polo. Its old town is a miniature version of Dubrovnik, but without the crowds. The streets are designed in a herringbone pattern to protect from wind and channel sea breezes. We dined at a konoba (local tavern) with grilled octopus, tomato salad with local olive oil and white pošip wine. One of the best culinary moments of the trip. From Korčula we sailed to Hvar, Croatia's most glamorous island. Hvar town combines a 16th-century Spanish fortress with modern yachts in the harbor. We rented a small boat (no license needed for motors up to 5HP) and explored the Pakleni islands: hidden coves with turquoise water where we were alone for hours. Lavender is Hvar's symbol. In June, the interior fields turn purple and the aroma is intoxicating.

Split is unlike any city we've visited. Diocletian's Palace, built in the 4th century, isn't a museum: it's the living center of the city. People live, shop and dine literally inside a Roman palace. The Peristyle, the palace's central courtyard, is where locals have morning coffee and where classical music concerts are held under the stars at night. The acoustics are perfect. Split's fruit and vegetable market (Pazar) is an explosion of colors and flavors. The fresh figs, cherries and peaches in summer are incredible. We climbed the bell tower of St. Domnius Cathedral for 360° views over the city and harbor. The climb is steep but worth it. The Riva promenade, with its palm trees and terraces, is the perfect spot for the Croatian ritual of 11:00 AM coffee.

We took a day trip from Split to Plitvice Lakes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's one of the most beautiful natural parks in Europe. 16 lakes connected by waterfalls and wooden walkways that wind over water in shades between turquoise and emerald. The travertine system creates natural pools of surreal beauty. We recommend arriving at 7:00 AM (when gates open) to enjoy it with fewer people. The long route (H) takes about 6 hours and covers all lakes, including the 78-meter Great Waterfall. In high season (July-August) tickets sell out online. Book at least one week in advance.

**Best time**: June and September are ideal (good weather, fewer tourists than July-August). May and October are also good but the water is cooler. **Visa**: Spanish citizens don't need a visa (Croatia is part of the EU and Schengen area since 2023). **Currency**: The euro (€) since January 2023. **Transport**: Jadrolinija ferries connect the main islands. Book in advance during summer. Fast catamarans by Krilo and TP Line are the best option. **Food**: A meal at a konoba costs €15-25. Fresh seafood is excellent and cheaper than in Spain. Don't miss pašticada (meat stew) and prawn buzara. **Driving**: Roads are good. The A1 Zagreb-Split highway has tolls. Parking in Dubrovnik and Split is expensive and scarce. **Tips**: 10% is standard in restaurants.