Cinque Terre: 5 Days Among the Five Hanging Villages

We arrived by train from La Spezia (8 min, €5). The Cinque Terre Card Train (€18.20/day) includes unlimited trains between villages and trail access. Essential.

Monterosso is the largest village and the only one with a wide beach. Spiaggia di Fegina, with its yellow umbrellas, has history: poet Eugenio Montale spent summers here. We rented umbrella + two loungers for €25.

For dinner, L'Ancora della Tortuga, with a terrace hanging over the sea. Acciughe al limone (Ligurian anchovies), authentic trofie al pesto and local Sciacchetrà white wine. €70 for two.

The Sentiero Azzurro is the classic trail. The Monterosso-Vernazza section (3.5 km, 2h) is the most demanding but also the most spectacular. Brutal initial climb, then continuous balcony over the sea.

We reached Vernazza mid-morning. It is, no contest, the most photogenic village: medieval tower, shell-shaped natural harbor, pastel houses. We climbed to Castello Doria (€1.50) for the postcard view.

We ate stuffed focaccia at Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre, run by two hyper-eccentric Sicilian brothers. Free show included. €12 for two.

Corniglia is the only village without direct sea access: 365 steps (the Lardarina) from the station. That's why it's the quietest. We tried the basil gelato at Alberto Gelateria — strange and delicious.

We took the train down to Manarola, arguably the most beautiful sunset in Italy. Aperitivo at Nessun Dorma overlooking the village cascading toward the sea (online booking mandatory, 2h queue otherwise). Spritz and salumi board €22.

The Beccara trail (alternative to the closed Via dell'Amore) drops to Riomaggiore in 40 minutes. Superior view, but steep gradient. We reached the port just in time for the last vaporetto.

We booked a boat tour at dawn with Angelo Cinque Terre: 4 hours, 7:00 departure, max 8 people, €65. Seeing the five villages from the sea at dawn changes the perspective entirely. We stopped at a cove to swim.

In the afternoon we explored Riomaggiore, the southernmost. We climbed to the castle (free entry) and to the Santuario di Montenero via the old Via dei Santuari, a high trail with views of all five villages at once.

Dinner at A Pié de Mà, terrace on the cliff edge. Spaghetti alle vongole and Cinque Terre DOC wine. €55 for two. Natural spectacle included.

Extra day to escape to Portovenere, technically outside the park but connected by boat from La Spezia (€10 one way). St Peter's Church on the headland, Grotta di Byron where the poet swam, and the three islands: Palmaria, Tino, Tinetto.

Lunch at Locanda Lorena (on Palmaria island, 5-minute ferry): catch of the day and view of Portovenere. €45 pp tasting menu.

Back to La Spezia and direct train to Pisa for the flight. The trick: leave luggage at Monterosso's left-luggage (€8/day) instead of dragging suitcases down stairs.