Amalfi Coast Route: 7 Days of Dreams

We arrived in Naples with our eyes wide open. This chaotic, noisy, and absolutely charming city was the perfect prelude to our adventure. We stayed in the historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where every alley hides a millennial history.

We couldn't leave without trying the original Neapolitan pizza. At L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele (yes, the one from "Eat Pray Love"), the margherita with melted buffalo mozzarella left us speechless. At €4 per pizza, we understood why there's a queue every day.

We dedicated the second day to visiting Pompeii. Walking through the streets of this city frozen in time by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD is an overwhelming experience. We hired a local guide who revealed fascinating details: from Roman graffiti to the running water systems they had 2,000 years ago.

The SITA bus from Sorrento was quite an adventure in itself. The sharp curves with vertigo-inducing views of the Mediterranean took our breath away (and some color from our faces). But when Positano appeared before us, it was all worth it.

The pastel-colored houses cascading down the hillside to the intense blue sea look like an impressionist painting. We got lost in its vertical alleys, discovering beachwear boutiques, aromatic lemon groves, and terraces with impossible views.

We had lunch at Da Adolfo, a beach restaurant accessible only by boat. Grilled prawns, local white wine, and our feet in the sand. The cost of the water taxi (€15 round trip) is worth every penny.

In the afternoon, we rented sun loungers at Fornillo beach, quieter than the main one. The sunset from there, with the village lights starting to turn on, was magical.

Ravello sits 350 meters above sea level, and the views from the Gardens of Villa Cimbrone are, without exaggeration, some of the most spectacular we've ever seen. The "Terrazzo dell'Infinito" lives up to its name: the horizon merges with the sky in an infinite blue.

This village is different from the rest of the coast. Quieter, more elegant, more intimate. Wagner composed part of Parsifal here, and you understand why: there's something in the air that inspires.

We also visited Villa Rufolo, whose 13th-century gardens host the famous classical music festival every summer. We had an Aperol Spritz in the main square, watching the sunset while the cathedral bells marked the hours.

Tip: Go up to Ravello by bus and walk down the path to Minori. It's a 45-minute descent through lemon groves, with incredible views, and you end up in a charming village where you can try the best lemon gelato of your life.

Amalfi was for centuries one of the four Italian maritime republics, rivaling Venice and Genoa. Today it retains that air of past grandeur in its spectacular Arab-Norman cathedral, with its 62-step staircase dominating the main square.

We explored the Paper Museum, where we learned about Amalfi's papermaking tradition dating back to the 13th century. The ancient water machines still work, producing handmade paper you can take as a souvenir.

For lunch, we ventured into the Valley of the Mills, a green canyon where the old paper mills lie in vine-covered ruins. We ate at a hidden family restaurant serving homemade scialatielli ai frutti di mare.

In the afternoon, we rented kayaks to explore caves and coves inaccessible from land. The crystal-clear water allowed us to see the bottom meters deep. We found a small deserted beach where we swam completely alone.

The Grotta dello Smeraldo is the Amalfi Coast's answer to Capri's famous Blue Grotto. Through an underwater opening, sunlight enters and tints the water a supernatural emerald green. We descended by elevator into the cave, where small rowing boats took us to explore this natural phenomenon.

Praiano was our base for the second half of the trip. Less touristy than Positano, it retains an authentic fishing village atmosphere. From our boutique hotel, we watched every sunrise over the Mediterranean from bed.

That afternoon we hiked the Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei), a 7 km walk connecting Agerola with Nocelle. Walking 500 meters above the sea, through terraced farmland and oak forests, we understood why the ancient Greeks believed the gods walked here.

The hike ended in Nocelle, from where we took the 1,700 steps down to Positano. Yes, we counted every one. Our legs reminded us for days.

We spent our last day in Salerno, a city that many tourists ignore but that hides incredible treasures. The medieval old town, with its narrow streets and 11th-century Norman cathedral, won us over.

The Lungomare Trieste, the longest seafront promenade in Italy, was perfect for one last walk by the sea. We had coffee at the historic Bar Nettuno, watching local life pass by.

Before leaving, we climbed to Castello di Arechi, the medieval fortress crowning the city. From there, we contemplated one last time the bay, the coast we had traveled, and the mountains that protect it.

The trip ended as it began: with a perfect Neapolitan pizza, this time at Vicolo della Neve pizzeria. And with the promise to return.