Halong Bay: 3 Days Cruising the Wonder of Vietnam

We left Hanoi on the cruise's bus (4h, included). Alternative: express train to Hai Phong (2h30) then ferry to Cat Ba. More authentic but more complicated.

After a lot of research we chose Indochina Junk in Lan Ha Bay (south side, much less touristy). €320 pp for 2 nights in cabin with balcony. Decent options start from €150 pp.

Boarding at 12:30, lunch onboard (8 dishes, seafood of the day) as we sailed toward the first karsts. The cloudy morning light opens up and 200 islands appear like green teeth.

Afternoon: stop at a pearl farm in Vung Vieng, where a floating fishing community showed us how pearls are cultivated. We saw them open an oyster and pull out a tiny pink pearl. €15 for a small one.

Sunrise on deck. Optional tai chi with instructor at 6:30 (free). Mist over the sea and absolute silence.

Kayak in hidden lagoons. Lan Ha's Hidden Lagoon is an inner bay accessible only through a rock tunnel at water level. You have to lie flat on the kayak to enter. Inside: 100-meter vertical walls and singing curlews.

Lunch on a private beach, surprise Portuguese ham and fish in banana leaf. Free afternoon on the beach with paddle surf.

Visit to Sung Sot Cave (Surprise Cave), the most famous: three spectacular illuminated chambers. Very touristy but stalactites worth it. Back to the boat at sunset with gin and tonic on deck.

Last morning: Vietnamese cooking on the boat. We learned to make fresh rolls with the chef. 1h class, included in the price.

We disembarked in Cat Ba, the bay's biggest island. Some cruises include a visit to Monkey Island; we skipped: the "monkeys" are aggressive macaques fed by tourists.

Better option: climb Cat Ba National Park, short trail to Kim Giao viewpoint (1h up, easy). Full views over the bay from land.

Back to Hanoi by road. Gold tip: leave big luggage in Hanoi and board with just a backpack. It's a cruise, not a hotel.