Peru: From Lima to Machu Picchu in 12 Days

Lima surprised us from the very first bite. We're not exaggerating when we say it's one of the best cities in the world to eat. Central, Maido and Astrid & Gastón have been in the top World's 50 Best Restaurants for years. But you don't need to spend a lot: at Surquillo market we tried fresh ceviche for €3 and spectacular lomo saltado for €4. Lima's culinary scene is accessible to all budgets. The Miraflores neighborhood is perfect for sunset walks along the cliffs overlooking the Pacific. Barranco, the bohemian quarter, has the best nightlife and art galleries. We dedicated half a day to the historic center: Plaza Mayor, the San Francisco Convent with its catacombs, and the Santo Domingo church. The colonial architecture is impressive.

We flew from Lima to Cusco (3,400m altitude) and the first thing we did was drink coca tea to acclimatize. We recommend dedicating at least one full day to adjusting to the altitude before any physical exertion. Cusco is a magical city where Inca stones form the foundations of colonial churches. The Plaza de Armas at sunset, with its wooden balconies and mountains in the background, is one of the most beautiful spots in South America. We visited Sacsayhuamán, the Inca fortress on the outskirts of the city. Stones weighing over 100 tons fitted together without mortar are a mystery of ancient engineering. San Pedro market is the perfect place to try local food: fresh fruit juices, fried cheese, and the famous cuy (guinea pig), a traditional dish that adventurous eaters should try.

Before reaching Machu Picchu, we dedicated two days to the Sacred Valley of the Incas. It's a mistake to go directly to Machu Picchu without exploring this area. Ollantaytambo is a perfectly preserved Inca fortress where locals still live in the same stone houses the Incas used. The agricultural terraces and water channels still function after 500 years. The Maras salt mines are a visual spectacle: over 3,000 salt pools carved into the mountainside that gleam in the sun like a white and pink mosaic. Moray is an amphitheater of circular terraces that the Incas used as an agricultural laboratory. Each level has a different microclimate, allowing them to experiment with crops from different altitudes.

We took the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo). The 2-hour journey following the Urubamba River between increasingly vertiginous mountains builds indescribable anticipation. At 5:30 AM we took the first bus to the citadel. When the fog cleared and Machu Picchu appeared before us... there are no words. Photos don't do it justice. The scale, the perfection of the constructions, the location between cloud-covered peaks... it's overwhelming. We climbed Huayna Picchu (the mountain that appears behind the ruins in every photo). The ascent is steep and you need to book months in advance (only 400 people per day), but the views from above are the best vantage point of the entire citadel. We spent 4 hours exploring every temple, every terrace, every corner. We hired a local guide (30 soles/€10) who explained the astronomy, hydraulic engineering, and Inca cosmovision. Essential.

**Best time**: May to September (dry season in the highlands). Lima has good weather year-round. **Visa**: Spanish citizens don't need a visa for stays up to 90 days. **Currency**: Peruvian sol (PEN). €1 ≈ 4 PEN. Dollars are accepted at many tourist sites. **Altitude**: Cusco is at 3,400m. Drink coca tea, stay hydrated and don't exert yourself on the first day. Consider taking acetazolamide (Diamox) with a medical prescription. **Machu Picchu**: Tickets sell out weeks in advance. Book online on the Ministry of Culture's official website. The capacity is 4,044 people/day divided into circuits. **Transport**: Domestic flights Lima-Cusco cost €50-100. The train to Machu Picchu (PeruRail or Inca Rail) costs €60-80 round trip. **Safety**: Peru is safe for tourists, but take precautions with taxis (use apps like InDriver) and don't carry valuables visibly.