Edinburgh: Castles, Whisky and Highlands in 7 Days

Edinburgh: The Two-Faced City

Edinburgh has a fascinating dual personality. The Old Town, with the Royal Mile connecting Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, is a medieval maze of dark alleys (closes) with stories of ghosts and murders.

Edinburgh Castle, atop an extinct volcano, dominates the skyline. Views from the ramparts span the entire city, the Firth of Forth and, on clear days, the Highlands. The Stone of Destiny, used in coronations since the 9th century, is here.

The New Town is the polar opposite: elegant Georgian architecture, immaculate gardens and Princes Street with castle views. The National Gallery of Scotland is free and has Botticellis and Rembrandts.

Arthur's Seat, an extinct volcano within the city, gave us a 2-hour trek with the best panoramic views of Edinburgh. Harry Potter was born here: J.K. Rowling wrote at The Elephant House café with castle views.

Whisky Trail and Distilleries

The Scotch Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile is the perfect introduction: a tour through Scotland's whisky regions with tastings of single malts from Speyside, Islay, Highland and Lowland.

We visited Glenkinchie distillery 30 minutes from Edinburgh: the closest Lowland distillery to the capital. The tour includes seeing the copper stills and a tasting of their 12-year single malt.

Scotch whisky has rules: it's spelled "whisky" (no e), taken with a splash of water to open the aromas, and NEVER with ice if it's a quality single malt.

In Edinburgh's pubs we tried over 20 different whiskies. The Bow Bar on Victoria Street has over 300 references. A 16-year Lagavulin by the fireplace is the definition of Scottish hygge.

Highlands and Isle of Skye

The Highlands are what you imagine when you think of Scotland: heather-covered mountains, lochs reflecting dramatic clouds and ruined castles.

Glen Coe is the most spectacular valley: rugged mountains where scenes from Harry Potter, James Bond and Braveheart were filmed. The story of Clan MacDonald and the 1692 massacre adds real drama to the landscape.

Loch Ness greeted us with fog (of course). We didn't see Nessie, but the ruins of Urquhart Castle over the loch are magical. The loch is 230 meters deep and holds more fresh water than all the lakes of England and Wales combined.

The Isle of Skye is another world: the Old Man of Storr, the crystal-clear Fairy Pools and Neist Point cliffs at sunset are Europe's most dramatic landscapes.

Practical Tips and Budget

**Best time:** May-September. But Scotland rains ALL year. August has the Edinburgh Festival Fringe.

**Budget per person (7 days):** - International flights: €50-150 - Accommodation (B&Bs and hotels): €350-600 - Car rental (for Highlands): €200-350 - Meals and pubs: €200-350 - Entries and distilleries: €60-120 - Fuel: €60-100 - **Estimated total: €920-1,670**

**Essential tips:** - Drive on the left and watch out for single-track roads in the Highlands - Book Highland B&Bs in advance: supply is limited - Bring waterproof clothing and layers: weather changes every hour - Haggis is delicious (seriously): try it with neeps and tatties - Midges (Scottish mosquitoes) are terrible June-August: bring repellent