Bali Beyond Ubud: Secret Temples and Rice Fields

Tegallalang is beautiful but overcrowded. To see rice terraces in peace, drive 30 minutes north to Jatiluwih. These UNESCO World Heritage rice terraces extend as far as the eye can see, with the Batukaru volcano as a backdrop.

We arrived at dawn, when mist still covered the valleys. We walked the paths between terraces, crossing small streams, while farmers began their day. There wasn't another tourist in sight. We had breakfast at a warung (local restaurant) at the edge of the rice fields: nasi goreng with fried egg and Balinese coffee for €3.

Another secret: Sidemen. This valley east of Ubud is what Ubud was 20 years ago. Emerald green rice fields, the majestic Mount Agung dominating the horizon, and boutique accommodations with infinite views. We stayed in a villa with an infinity pool overlooking the rice fields for €80 per night. The only sound was birdsong and irrigation water flowing through centuries-old canals.

Tanah Lot and Uluwatu are spectacular but touristy. Bali's most magical temples require effort to find.

Pura Lempuyang: You need to get up early (there's a queue at 5 AM). The 'gates of heaven temple' is famous for the photo with Mount Agung framed between the gates. The reflection photo you see on Instagram is a trick (they use a mirror under the camera). But the complex of seven temples climbing the mountain is genuinely sacred and beautiful.

Pura Tirta Empul: A water temple where Balinese practice purification rituals. You can participate: dress in a sarong, make an offering, and submerge your head under each of the 13 sacred spouts while reciting a prayer. It's an intense spiritual experience, but do it with respect.

Pura Gunung Kawi: My favorite. We descended 300 steps toward a valley where huge shrines are carved directly into the rock, surrounded by palm trees and streams. It's from the 11th century and transmits an ancient, solemn energy. There were hardly any visitors.

While everyone goes south, northern Bali remains virgin. From Ubud, it's 2 hours of winding road crossing mountains.

Lovina: Black volcanic sand beaches, fishermen with their traditional jukung boats, and wild dolphins at sunrise. We stayed at a beachfront hotel for €40 per night. We dined on freshly caught grilled fish while the sun set over the Java Sea.

Aling-Aling: A waterfall with natural slides and jumps up to 15 meters. We hired a local guide (€5) who took us along jungle paths to three different waterfalls. We jumped from 5-meter rocks into crystal-clear water, alone, without another tourist in sight.

Munduk: A mountain village surrounded by coffee and clove plantations. Munduk's waterfalls are multiple and accessible by walking through coffee fields. The fresh mountain air and morning mist create a mystical atmosphere.

The most special thing about Bali isn't its landscapes, but its omnipresent spirituality. Every morning, women prepare offerings (canang sari) of flowers, incense, and rice that they place at temples, shops, cars, and street corners.

We were lucky enough to coincide with a real cremation in Ubud. Balinese cremations are joyful celebrations, not sad. The entire community participates, there's gamelan music, and the black bull-shaped sarcophagus is carried by dozens of men who spin it to confuse the spirit. We were invited to observe respectfully.

At Tirta Gangga, we visited the water palace at sunset, when local families come to bathe in the sacred fountains. Children playing, grandmothers praying, teenagers taking photos: Balinese life in its everyday nature.

Tip: Learn some Balinese words (terima kasih = thank you, suksma = thank you in traditional Balinese). Locals greatly appreciate the effort.

Nusa Penida is the neighboring island that Instagram has made famous. Kelingking Beach, with its T-Rex shape, is everywhere. But the island offers much more than that single viewpoint.

We arrived by fast boat from Sanur (30 minutes, €20 round trip). Instead of going directly to Kelingking like everyone else, we started on the east side of the island.

Atuh Beach: A beach hidden between cliffs that requires descending 500 steps. Below, white sand, turquoise water, and spectacular rock formations. There were maybe 10 people.

Crystal Bay: The best beach for snorkeling. We saw manta rays (there's a famous dive spot nearby) and thousands of tropical fish.

Thousand Islands Viewpoint: A lesser-known viewpoint with views of small rocky islands emerging from the turquoise sea. We arrived at sunset and were alone.

We left Kelingking for sunrise on the second day. At 6 AM, without the afternoon hordes, we could enjoy the landscape in peace.