Colombia: From Cartagena to the Coffee Region in 12 Days

Cartagena won our hearts from the first step inside the walls. The walled old town is a World Heritage Site: cobblestone streets with bougainvillea-covered balconies, impossibly colorful facades and salsa music flowing from every corner. The Getsemaní neighborhood is Cartagena's bohemian soul. Graffiti-covered walls, bars with live music and nighttime energy make it the city's most vibrant quarter. Plaza de la Trinidad at sunset, with locals dancing salsa, is an unforgettable scene. The Walled City deserves an unhurried stroll: Plaza de Santo Domingo, the Clock Tower, San Pedro Claver church. We hired a local guide (€15) who told us stories of pirates, slaves and colonizers who forged the city. We dined at La Cevichería (made famous by Anthony Bourdain) and the coconut milk shrimp ceviche was revelatory. But the real culinary gems were the egg arepas and cocadas sold by palenqueras on the street. We took a boat trip to the Rosario Islands: perfect Caribbean waters, snorkeling with tropical fish and a fried fish lunch on an island that seemed like a dream.

We flew to Medellín, the city that has undergone the most impressive urban transformation in Latin America. From being one of the world's most dangerous cities to becoming a benchmark for innovation and culture. The El Poblado neighborhood is the perfect base: restaurants, artisan cafés, nightlife and perfect year-round temperatures (22-28°C). We took the Metrocable up to Parque Arví, a cloud forest in the mountains. The cable car passes over the comunas and the views are impressive. Medellín's public transport system (metro + cable) is an example for all of Latin America. Comuna 13, once one of the most dangerous neighborhoods, is today an open-air museum of street art and social transformation. Tours guided by local youth are one of the trip's most powerful experiences. At the Antioquia Museum, we admired Fernando Botero's sculptures, Colombia's most famous artist. His voluminous figures also fill the outdoor Plaza Botero.

We flew to Pereira and from there ventured into the Coffee Region, where Colombian coffee is produced — one of the world's finest. We stayed at a traditional coffee finca in Salento, a colonial town with colorful houses and the best coffee we've ever tasted. The process of seeing how the bean is grown, harvested, processed and roasted changes how you see every cup. The Cocora Valley is Colombia's most iconic landscape: wax palms (the national tree) rising up to 60 meters among clouds and green mountains. The 4-hour hike through the valley, crossing hanging bridges and traversing cloud forest, is spectacular. In Filandia, a town less touristy than Salento, we found the most authentic Colombia. Grandparents playing tejo in the square, coffee served in pewter cups and homemade empanadas. Time stops here. We visited Don Elías's coffee hacienda, where he personally showed us the complete coffee process on his small family farm. We bought a kilo of freshly roasted coffee for €8. In Spain you'd pay €30 for a worse one.

We ended the trip in Bogotá, the capital at 2,640 meters altitude. It's a city that requires a minimum of two days to appreciate. La Candelaria, the historic center, is full of museums, universities and the best street food in Colombia. The Gold Museum (free on Sundays) houses the world's largest collection of pre-Columbian goldwork: 34,000 dazzling pieces. We took the cable car up Cerro de Monserrate. At 3,152 meters, the views over the immensity of Bogotá are overwhelming. At the top there's a colonial church and restaurants with views. Bogotá's gastronomic scene is in full bloom. Leo, by chef Leonor Espinosa, was named the best restaurant in Latin America in 2022. We tried her tasting menu that explores Colombian biodiversity: big-bottomed ants, Amazonian fruits, Chocó cacao. Paloquemao market is our favorite of the entire trip: an explosion of tropical fruits we'd never seen (lulo, soursop, feijoa, cape gooseberry) and the freshest juices in the world.

**Best time**: Colombia can be visited year-round. December-March and July-August are the driest seasons. **Visa**: Spanish citizens don't need a visa for stays up to 90 days (extendable by 90 more). **Currency**: Colombian peso (COP). €1 ≈ 4,300 COP. Everything is very affordable. **Safety**: Colombia has improved enormously. Tourist areas are safe. Use common sense: don't display valuables, use transport apps (Uber, InDriver, DiDi). **Health**: Yellow fever vaccine is recommended if visiting rural areas or the coast. Tap water isn't potable in all cities. **Domestic flights**: With Viva Air or Wingo from €20. Colombia is large and domestic flights save a lot of time. **Tips**: 10% in restaurants (usually included as "voluntary service" on the bill).